The River was fist run in 1995 by John Foss, Eva Luna Ramirez and Jon Barker who put in below the town of Lampa. In May of 1996 I ran the river with Mike Savory of New Zealand. Mike and I avoided a 1-1/2 day walk into the canyon by putting in upstream at the Village of Vilcar. We were rewarded with an additional day of 5+ boating and a simple put in alongside a bridge.

The Maran River starts in the department of Ayacucho and flows off the western flank of the Andean Cordillera. Upon joining the Cotahuasi the combined flow is called the Rio Ocoña which is Peru’s largest river flowing into the Pacific Ocean.

This is a wilderness Class 5-6 river trip of outer limits proportions. Once you enter the canyon there are few if any bailout possibilities. The window for running the river is very narrow from approx May 15 to June 5th depending on snow pack. The runnable flow of the river is approx. 700-1250 CFS. There are several arduous portages and hundreds of class 4-6 rapids. Topo Maps of the region are a necessity and are available from the Geographica Militar in Lima. One can take out in Iquipi at 400 meters of elevation or continue to the Pacific Ocean (Ocoña 0 meters of elevation) which involves an additional 50-60 Km of paddling class 2-3.

To get to the river from Lima take Etigsa or Alva (Depot location in Lima is Emilio Sabastian Barronca 109 phone 238168) bus lines to Pausa and then on to Marcabamba/Vilcar. The bus in Lima can be found in “La Victoria” section of the city. It is roughly 25 hours from Lima by direct bus but can take up to three days if the direct buses are full or not running and combinations of buses are used. Approximate cost 35 Soles. If you have your choice take the Etigsa bus as it does not stop in Marcabamba but continues on to Sequello to serve the people of the upper valley. Tell the driver you want to get off in Vilcar. As the bus passes Marcabamba it descends rapidly down into the river valley. Get off at the junction to Vilcar/Colta and carry your boat down to the bridge at the river. Bring 7-10 days worth of food with you from Lima, as there is no food available from this point on except for some orange trees you may find along the river 6-7 days below.

Day 1 May 23, 1996

On our trip the bus arrived near to the bridge of Vilcar (elevation 2275 meters) at 12:30 in the afternoon. We were on the river by 1:00, which starts with the name of Huanca Huanca and meanders gently through basalt bluffs. The river starts to get progressively more difficult and 9 km below Vilcar is the first portage. At this point (2150 meters) you are approx 1000 vertical meters below the town of Lampa. We found a small beach with enough sand for two people and plenty of firewood.

Day summary 9 km 125 meters 14 m/km

Day 2 May 24, 1996

The day starts with a bang. The first ¾ km of river completes a bend in the canyon to the west and is full of non-stop action involving 10 distinct class 5 rapids in tight sequence. This section drops at 60 m/km and we had two short portages. When you come to a massive rock in the center of the river that resembles a skull it is time to get out on river right and carry your boat up to a faint fishing trail 30 meters above the river. It is here that the river enters a series of sieves and a micro canyon with vertical walls. We arrived here at 9:30 in the morning after an 8:00 AM start. The next four hours were spent making a ¾ km portage on the right side of the river. After some rest we ran one drop and got out to scout the canyon from the left. We could see one beach 50 meters below us on the right so we got back in our boats and made camp there at 3:00 (elevation 2050 meters). Note: it gets dark in the canyon often by 4:00 PM. Before cooking dinner we crawled thru a hole in a rock in an effort to get a view of where we would put on in the morning. We could see that a massive rock had fallen in from the vertical right wall and crossed over half the river. We would have to paddle underneath the overhanging rock in the morning and hope to find an eddy on the other side.

Day summary 1-1/2 km 100 meters 66 m/km

Day 3 May 25, 1996

Huge day of whitewater including two 4 meter and one 5 meter falls. The first 4-meter drop was immediately after passing under the house-sized boulder just below camp. Later we came to a radical, low volume, 5 meter falls with one tight runnable line alongside of two death chutes. The second 4 meter drop came at the end of a complex class 5 rapid that was hard to scout and perhaps impossible to portage. It started with a 2-meter drop on river left then a run along the left cliff face to an eddy in the center of the river. From here it was thru a center chute moving hard right then a hard left draw and paddling hard to the left side of the 4-meter drop.

In total we ran 3 km with 6 portages none of which was too long or heinous. Camp was on a bench on river left at 1890 meters.

Day summary 3 km 160 meters 53 m/km

Day 4 May 26^th

Another day with class 4-6 rapids. The first four hours were good boating. Then, after portaging a class 6 rapid we reached an un-portagable rapid that we could not scout nor could we return upstream. The center went into an obvious death sieve that was making an incredible sucking sound that filled the canyon. Neither the left chute nor the right chute was visible from river level but Mike, who had scaled the left wall thought the right would “GO”. We agreed to start 15 seconds apart and drop into the unknown. Mike bashed his elbow going through the first chute and I got stuck in the ledge hole for a 5 second ride which felt like eternity. After passing through the first chute we both made the right decision and punched the next river wide hole on the right. At the bottom we were able to get out and walk up the river left cliff and look at the rapid we had just run without scouting. The time was midday and we continued on for another 1.5-2 km. 500 meters beyond a mini gorge we found an amazing camp on river left. Looking downstream we could see the Quebrada from Pausa entering on the other side of the river. The camp has lots of firewood and unlike most places in the canyon enough sand for 15 people. Within eyesight there is also a big cave with sulfur inside.

In total we ran 8 km with 3 portages one of which involved a 6-meter seal launch. Camp was at 1685 meters.

Day summary 8 km 205 meters 26m/km

Day 5 May 27, 1996

After leaving camp and passing the Quebrada entering from Pausa, the canyon walls close up and the drops get big. This goes on for 1 km and then the canyon opens for 1 km but again abruptly closes. The entrance to this second canyon has a heinous rapid that is very difficult to scout. We arrived here at 11:30 and started to scout from the left. A portage on the left was not possible due to recent avalanche that left a nearly vertical scree slope. We moved to the right and found a portage route through but were exhausted and decided to camp on the beach on river right at the beginning of the portage.

In total we ran 3 km with several portages. At one point we were again forced to run an un-portagable class 5 rapid that was at the lip of a waterfall that went into an undercut. The move involved crossing from the right side of the river to the left and getting out of your boat and seal launching off the backside of an island in the middle of the river. What made the move so difficult was a huge, river wide hole just upstream of the island. Camp was at 1575 meters.

Day summary 3 km 110 meter 37 m/km

Day 6 May 28th

In the morning we carried our boats to the bottom of a huge wall of driftwood. We were forced to run the lower part of this portage through a chute on river right. We continued the portage around the next section on river right and then came to a bend in the river where we were forced boat to the left side of the river and begin the third stage of the portage on the vertical left wall. This final stage took three hours and involved lining boats along the cliff and then self-rappelling in your boat back into the river. Whoever follows us next into the canyon will be happy to find we left anchors and webbing in the walls. Note: For this section of river it is well advised to have several sections of webbing, a pulley, and several sections of webbing that can be abandoned.

The whitewater continued until the final canyon on the curve just above the entrance of the Rio Oyolo. Luckily this final, vertical walled canyon has flatwater and the added surprise of hundreds of Garzas (Herons). One km after the confluence of Rio Oyolo, which brings in several hundred CFS of water, one comes to Puente Uchubamba. The river has class 4+ rapids which begin to taper to class 3 until one approaches Puente Maran where the river again bumps up to class 4+, 5- in one ¾ km long rapid just above the bridge.

We made camp 1 km below Puente Ocoña at a beach on river left (1275 meters) Apart from the long portage at camp in the morning, which took 4 hours there were no portages.

Day summary 15 km 300 meters 20 m/km

Day 7 May 29, 1996

Leaving camp at 7:00 AM and boating continuously through incredible class 4, granite boulder rapids, allows one to reach the Ocoña by 10:30 AM. This 30 km stretch drops 360 meters or 12 m/km. Here the Rio Cotahuasi doubles the flow to an estimated 2500 CFS. The canyon opens up into a wide arid basin with class 2-4 swift moving whitewater all the way to Iquipi some 6 hours or 44 km downstream.

The village of Iquipe (elevation 400 meters) is a good takeout option as there are micros or daily bus service to Camana for 10 soles. In Camana bus service is readily available to Arequipa for 5 soles. Since my last trip on the Río Ocoña I have learned that a road has been built from Iquipe to the coastal town of Ocoña where the Pan American highway crosses the river.

One can continue paddling downstream to Ocoña and it required another 10 hours of strenuous paddling with some flat-water stretches. What makes this stretch particularly difficult is the cold, coastal fog called Garua and the strong afternoon headwinds.

From camp to Iquipi are an impressive 74 km and a drop of 875 meters @ 12 m/km

For the take out of the river:

In Iquipi Take the minibus to Camana for 10 soles which arrives at 5:00 AM and from there buses are available to Lima or Arequipa throughout the day. It is 6 soles from Camana to Arequipa and only 4 hours.

Brent, Jay, Cas, Kurt, Duilio, Oliver on Upper Colca foto by Nate Elliot

A 44 KM stretch of river above the Lunar Canyon has laid dormant for almost 20 years since a group of Poles attempted the river in fiberglass kayaks and a non self bailing raft. The Poles pronounced the river un-runnable and endured a incredibly arduous journey of unparalleled proportions. In early November of 2003 Russell Kelly and Damen Millar ventured back into the Cabnaconde Canyon of the Colca and uncovered a sleeping giant. Not only did they find the river to be navigable but they found outstanding class 5 whitewater in a  breathtaking canyon. This Upper section of river offers easier access than the the downstream run and provides 2-1/2 to 3 days of additional whitewater.

Duilio Velutino Upper Colca  Oct. 05

Oliver Grossman going deep  Upper Colca

To reach the put in one needs to arrive in the colonial town of Cabanaconde on the rim of the Colca Canyon. There is regular bus service from Arequipa to Cabanaconde which has become a regular tourist destination for people hiking into the canyon and for visitors hoping to glimpse a view of the magnificent Andean condor at a site now called cruz Del Condor”

To get to the river from Arequipa take

Day summary in km and meters m/km

Click here for a topo map – HUAMBO.PDF 1.47 MB

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CLICK HERE to download a free copy.

Chocalate Canyon Rio Colca

There are multiple and distinct runs on the Colca, which vary in difficulty and with the season. From January to April the river is at its highest level and there is a 3 km, class V+ section that can be run from approximately 1 km above the “La Calera” hot springs to 1 km above the town of Chivay approximately 3675 meters above sea level. Duilio Velutino, Gian Marco Velutino and Robbie Dastin did this section during the high water created by the “El Niño” rains in March of 1997.

At the same time of year another approx 10 km stretch can be run from Tuti (3800 meters). This stretch is pretty and meanders through cool rock formations with little or no difficult whitewater.

From Chivay to Madrigal the river may be runnable but as far as I know has not yet been explored. From Madrigal to the swinging bridge below Cabanaconde is an unrunnable 23 km stretch that drops almost a thousand meters. 15 cubic meters of water are taken out of the river above Chivay. This water passes through the canals on the lip of the canyon and eventually plunges back into the Majes valley providing irrigation for some 70,000 Hectares of reclaimed desert and generating electricity for Southern Peru.

From Cabanaconde to Canco the stretch of river is known as the “Upper Colca”. The Poles ran the river once with both rafts and kayaks in 1979. It was described by the Poles as an arduous 44 km stretch that involves more time spent portaging than boating in their 11 day endeavor. The river was not run again until Damen Millar and Russell Kelly did it in creeks boats at the beginning of November 2003 with an estimated flow at Canco of 400 CFS. The run is very good expedition style boating with some 5-6 reasonable portages in the 2-1/2 day stretch to Canco. Damen’s suggestion is to hit this section while it is low (July-October) and beware of the rains which usually come at the beginning of November. To reach the put in hike 2 hours from Cabanconde down into the canyon with burros and start the trip at the “OASIS” which lies on a popular tourist trek. Cabanconde is at 3460 meters and the put in for this section is at 2200 meters. The average gradient throughout the 44 KM stretch is 18 m/km. For more information on this stretch of river see Pole’s guidebook titled “In Kayak through Peru” or see River description on this web site.

The section from Canco (at 1400 meters of elevation) to La Central passes through the Lunar Canyon. This 70 km stretch of river is one of the best runs in Peru. The run takes from 3-10 days depending on the group size/strength and if a raft is involved. On the trip you will see condors, black-chested buzzard eagles, nutrias (otters), and scorpions. The no-see-um bugs can be a bit of a drag but are only out at dusk and dawn. Rubbing the leaves of the ever abundant Molle tree onto the skin serves as a natural repellant and keeps the bugs at bay. With an almost guarantee of no rain, no tents are needed on the trip.

The best way to reach the Colca is from Arequipa or Cuzco. There is daily bus service from Arequipa’s central terminal to Huambo. A recommended alternative is to hire a private mini van and driver of which there are many servicing this popular tourist route. A private driver will allow you to take your time and enjoy the views and small towns along the way. The road leaves Arequipa and after passing Yura starts to climb, passing behind the high peaks of Chachani and Misti. The road maxes out on the Altiplano at around 4300 meters and then begins the descent into Chivay. From here the drive becomes very interesting passing such places as Yanque, Cruz Del Condor and the village of Cabanaconde. there are hot springs to visit along this section of the Upper Colca valley.

In Huambo (elevation 3270 meters) begins the 1800-meter descent to the village of Canco. Burros, Mules or horses can be hired in town. Susana Leon who owns the restaurant along the plaza can help find animals. Expect to pay at least 20 soles per animal plus something for the owner who will accompany you to the valley floor and will return with the animals. If you use burros make sure the animals have Cerrones or Cañastas (saddle-like equipment which helps balance the kayaks). The hike to the river takes 6-8 hours and is at least 12 km long . The village of Canco whose terraced fields lie on the banks of the Colca is an oasis in an otherwise desert environment. Canco has fruit trees, turkeys, cows and sheep, but most importantly “HOT SPRINGS”. Usually there are small bathing ponds on river left but if you swim across the river there is where super-hot water bubbles out of a spot right below the huge cliff on river right.

The river is very small at the put in at Canco and does not pick up volume until the Mamacocha river doubles or triples the flow with warm water. The best time to run this stretch is from Late May to late June when the flow is 1500-2000 CFS.. The river has been run commercially from July until the rains arrive in early November but scratchy flows of 700 CFS are not as exciting.

It is 3 km from confluence of the Mamacocha to Ayo, where the tiny Río Ayo enters on river right.

From Ayo it is 6 km by river to where the tiny Rio Jasmin enters on river left. In this section before the Jasmin there is one great several KM long class 4 rapid. Just below the confluence of the Río Jasmin is 4 km stretch of class 4 water which includes Canoandes rapid which was once class five but has changed and mellowed to a class 4+ rapid. At the end of this lies “Ducha Del condor” which is where a small waterfall cascades several hundred meters off of the left wall and is nothing but mist as it reaches the river. Looking up the left wall beside the falls is a ledge with nesting Condors. In the late afternoon the birds all return to the nesting area and make passes through the water mist as if it where a shower. A huge flat rock ledge on river right is a great place to get out and camp or at least watch the birds.

From “Ducha Del condor” there is 6 km of fun class 4 whitewater to Satay where the Quebrada Gloriahuasi enters on river right. This stretch also contains several calm stretches where the vertical walls have outstanding geological formations. Two km below Satay is the beginning of the “Chocolate Canyon”. The Chocolate Canyon is one of the coolest places on earth. Towering walls is many different color patterns dominate the skyline. Some great camps can be found in here as well.

The 8 km stretch through the Chocolate Canyon and up to Reparaz contains a lot of 4+ whitewater. Reparaz gets the adrenaline flowing as it is impossible to scout and not portagable into you are within its walls. The rapid that lies within the canyon was once a runnable class 4+/5- rapid. In 2005 the rapid changed and the bottom portion is a MUST PORTAGE. You need to enter the canyon on the right side and immediately work your way to the left and get out on a shallow gravel bar and portage equipment between giant boulders on the left which now form a river wide sieve. The move is not very difficult at low flows. I used to recommend running the lower Colca at higher flows in May and early June. I do not think it will be possible to make the portage of Reparaz at higher flows so it will in effect become a death trap. For that reason I would suggest running this stretch from July to Nov 1 until further notice.

From the exit of Reparaz to Green’s Canyon is 4 km of relatively easy whitewater. Immediately after Green’s Canyon is Pole’s Canyon where the rock turns from green to black. This intimidating rapid is runnable at low flows but at normal flows is a definite portage and at higher flows may require you to run the last class 5 part of the canyon.

Once past the Poles Canyon the power of the river backs of considerably. Many times the canyon will start to open but quickly closes again until it finally opens for good just above the confluence with the Río Andamayo. From here one can take out about 5 KM below where a concrete flume brings some water into the river. A road on river right has combis that run on fairly regular interval to Aplao where buses to arequipa can be located.

As an option continue downstream approximately 20-25 km with easy, fun whitewater to the take out at the swinging bridge of La Central. On one trip in 1994 we camped alongside the road at LA Central and caught the 5:00 AM bus to Arequipa. Another option from La Central is to hitch hike a few km up the road to the Majes River Hotel and spend the night with the “boater friendly” owners.

A high water option for rafting and for beginner kayakers is to start boating above La Central and make the journey to Aplao or onward to Punta Colorado or even the city of Camana itself.

Click here for a topo map – HUAMBO.PDF 1.47 MB

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CLICK HERE to download a free copy.

The standard run is relatively short at 5-6 km with the takeout being the entrance to the city with an elevation of 2350 meters (noticeable shortly after one drops over a low headroom dam/weir). The river descends through agricultural terraces with small stretches in mini granite walled canyons. At higher flows you can continue downstream for many more km’s or relatively open boating but make sure you have some way of getting back.

View of takeout as rivers enters Arequipa with Volcan Misti in background

To get to the put in take a taxi or a private car from the heart of town to the outflow of the dam a few km upstream where the elevation is 2550 meters

There is nothing extremely dangerous about the run except for an occasional strainer. At higher flows (> 500 CFS) some juicy holes develop especially in the micro granite canyons. Most of the rapids are class 2-3 but the mini canyon stretches are class 4. The dam releases through most of the dry season providing irrigation water to the fields below. Flows can be very low (approx. 150 CFS) but one can still get down the river and have fun.

If you have no kayak and want to raft this section or if you want to ride in a double kayak you can contact Gian Marco Velutino at Cusipata Viajes in downtown Arequipa. SEE LINK

In March of 1998, with the heavy El Niño rains punishing the Northern coast of Peru, several of us set off to investigate the Tambo, which was supposedly in a partial rain shadow, which was at the time less affected by the torrential floods occurring a few 100 kms to the north. We drove with a friend from Arequipa to the where the Tambo River crosses under the Pan-American highway some 4 hours south of Arequipa. Although it was nighttime and therefore dark, we could see the flow and estimated it to be 1000 CFS. We speculated on what the river would be like 120 km upstream in the deep canyons of the Andean Cordillera. After viewing topographic maps we decided to drive to the upper portion of the river and put in somewhere below Volcan Ubinas. Our intent was to enter the canyon and reach a bridge crossing near the village of Quinistaquillas some 50 km downstream at 1500 meters of elevation. We estimated 6 days and Gian Marco’s father agreed to meet us there with the vehicle.

On the trip we had John Foss, Andreas Fischer (Germany), myself, and Two Peruvians: Gian Marco Velutino and Jose Francisco (Cachemere) Giraldo. We drove in Gian Marco’s van along with his wife, son, and father up to the Altiplano and Laguna Salinas. Laguna Salinas is home to thousands of Parihuanas (pink Flamingos) whose colors gave rise to the Peruvian flag. We followed the road to Juliaca and turned off to follow a tract to the village of Ubinas. This village, which is situated at 3200 meters, is located on the backside of Volcan Ubinas (5625 meters), whose recent eruptions from 1936-1939 still bring memories of respect to the elders of the village. From Ubinas there is a road that winds its way down to the river. We camped at a village called Huatauga where the road disappeared at a Quebrada Para. A Huayco (landslide) had taken out the road in February.

It was only an hour carry with our boats to the river. We put on at the confluence of the now dry Rio Para and Tambo, the latter whose flow contained 600 CFS. A few km downstream we reached hot springs called Ojo Mela. After a soak we continued downstream making camp at 2350 meters across from the Pampa De Candahua. The whitewater on the river was mostly class 3-4.

In the morning we reached the swinging bridge one km below camp. The bridge connects the villages of Candahua and Cacahuara. From here the river turned to class 5 and continued for next few hours until we reached what the locals call “Puente De Diablo”. This 6 km stretch dropped 150 meters for an average drop of 25 m/km. Here the river enters a vertical canyon with a right wall formed by Volcan Huaynaputina (4806 meters) and a left wall formed by Cerro Aromayo (4000 meters). The entry rapid into the vertical walled chasm is a 6-meter falls. We got out on river right to scout the canyon. Three of us began to climb the nearly vertical right wall with hopes that upon reaching the bench 200 meters above, we would be able to see into the canyon. The hike was viscous as the walls were covered with meters of volcanic ash from recent explosions. After several hours we reached the flat bench at the top of the canyon and to our amazement it began to rain, with blinding, torrential sheets of water. We abandoned the scout and quickly tried to return to the boats below. The rain caused the wall to slide behind us as we descended back to river level and we arrived in the dark to find the others cooking in a cave beside the river. The river was already starting to rise and we carried boats and gear to the highest point we could reach and hung all the gear from ropes and carabineers. Being without tents, we all looked for shelter at a high level. Most of us found refuge under an overhanging cliff but to sleep we had to tie each other into the wall. Around midnight I woke up with the full moon in my eyes and a deafening roar in my ears. The rain had stopped but to my disbelief the river had surged to an estimated 50 times its previous volume and was within inches of reaching the shelf we were camped on (at what was 20 above the river.) I woke everyone up and we tried to get to higher ground. By 2:00 the river started dropping and by sunrise it was down to a few thousand CFS. The boats were safe but we had lost the kitchen, water filter and most of our food. After watching the river for a while we realized that the level had stabilized at a few thousand CFS and was no longer dropping. We all agreed to bail out. The question became HOW and to WHERE. Gian Marco and Andreas agreed to climb out of the canyon and head back upstream to look for nearest village. Cachemere, John and I would stay behind and try to get boats out of canyon and up to bench 200 vertical meters above. John was sick and not able to help so it took Cachemere and I 2 days to get the gear up to the bench. At this point Gian Marco and Andreas returned with news that they had found a village and that some people with burros would be arriving the next morning. Although out of the vertical gorge we still had to carry the boats up another 400 vertical meters to find the remnants of a trail to the village.

The next morning three burros and a mula showed up and we loaded the animals for the 6-8 km trail to Candahua. The trail was seldom used and was in terrible condition. We spent the whole day on the trail and at many times had to unload and carry over treacherous stretches and steep pitches. We arrived at a swinging bridge and we told by the animal’s owners that they could not help us carry gear the next day onto the next village of Matalaque (where the road reaches and there is bus service). The animals were needed in the fields to carry the Tuna (Prickly pears) harvest. We would have to wait one day for the animals to make the 15 km trek to Matalaque. Rather than hike one hour up to the village we chose to make camp on a wide beach above the swinging bridge. Once again we started to cook dinner and the rains came. Within minutes the river was raging and we were scrambling with our gear to get to higher ground. With the walls of the riverbed being vertical we had had to walk down the river corridor for a few hundred meters. The water, which started at ankle level, was chest high when we reached the safety of the swinging bridge. We all huddled on the bridge and were amazed at how fast the river was rising. Massive Huaycos could be heard crashing down the mountains all around us and sparks from falling stones were lighting the sky. As the rain subsided and the light improved I saw what looked like milk coming down the mountain across from us. With all our camping gear and clothing soaked we abandoned the boats and headed to the village of Candahua. The trail we followed had just been the source of my milky white vision, in that a massive debris flow had come down the mountain and inundated the trail. We reached the village and found the few inhabitants hiding outside of their homes. The village headman let us sleep in his shed where we were packed liked sardines on the floor with chickens, rats and guinea pigs running all over us.

In the morning we learned that the storm, although short by my standards, had been the worst in 25 years. The trail we had just followed the day before no longer existed and the trail to Matalaque was impassable with animals. We tried to find people in the village to help carry our gear but no one was available. Gian Marco once again set off on foot for the town of Matalaque in an effort to find people to help with the boats and to use the radiophone to call his family and advise that we were okay. The rest of us set off on foot for Matalaque, carrying our gear only and abandoning the boats. The trail was in horrible condition and the progress was slow but at 5:30 PM we came across Gian Marco and a bunch of guys from Matalaque. Without gear they were able to run to Candahua and retrieve the boats. We arrived in Matalaque in the early evening and the boats showed up around midnight. Gian Marco explained that he had spoken with Arequipa by phone and had explained that we were okay. Apparently Gian Marco’s father had used a radiophone and had called Arequipa from the town of Omate (near our intended takeout). His father had arrived at the river and found no sign of us but was shocked to see several thousand CFS of brown churning water crashing over a 30 meter falls.

Being in Matalaque we thought we were home free and that a bus would be arriving in the morning to take us back to Arequipa. What we learned was sobering. The same storm had taken out the road from the pass down to Matalaque. We would have to carry our gear 800 vertical meters to a place called Nazcapa where the bus could reach. We decided to abandon the boats and organized for a horse to carry our gear to meet the bus. We started out at 3:00 AM and reached a descending truck and bus at 10:30 AM. On the bus was a group well stocked with Shovels and picks that were determined to reach Matalaque. Since the bus was retuning several of us jumped on to help with the road and to get our boats we had left behind.

Several hours later we reached town and retrieved our boats. The bus set off in the early evening to reach Arequipa. Somewhere near the pass but not quite to the point where our other friends were waiting, the axle sheared on the bus. The night air was viscous and we huddled together while waiting for the ascending truck, which arrived sometime after midnight. Our friends, who were waiting for our return did not have their bags with them and were freezing without spare clothing. The truck was packed with around 35 people and boxes of fruit. We crawled in and began a torturously slow, and incredibly cold, 14-hour journey over the Altiplano back to Arequipa.

Nine days after leaving Arequipa (with only two days on the river) we returned hungry and tired. The Tambo had definitely kicked our ass. Even if the big rains had not come and even if we had managed to portage the first canyon, we would still have had trouble with some of the remaining canyons. The topo maps indicated at least two more heinous canyons with severe constrictions on the way to Quinistaquillas and lots of gradient.

In retrospect I think it will be a while until someone completes this stretch of river and that a more reasonable, but still exciting 25 km stretch, will be from Lloque (3300 meter to Matalaque at 2500 meters)