There are multiple sections of the river one may chose to run depending on time and ability. The fact that a paved road follows the majority of the river allows for easy access and unlimited bail out opportunities. In the Canyon Del Pato 100 km below Huaraz the water is taken out of the river for a hydroelectric project. This 10 km dewatered stretch is a mandatory portage.

The town of Huraz lies at 3000 meters. From this point one can put on at just about any point along the river’s descent to the Pacific Ocean. A description of the length and gradient (highlighted in green) of each section follows:

To airport at Anta 25 km to 2791 meters 9 m/km

Anta to Carahuasi 10 km 2600 meters 18 m/km

Carahuasi to Mancos 15 km 2450 meters 10 m/km

Mancos to Caras 20 km 2200 meters 12.5 m/km

Caras to Sucre 16 km 2000 meters 12.5 m/km

Sucre to Bocatoma (exit pipes) 15 km 1850 10 m/km

Canyon Del Pato 10 km 1200 meters Portage 65 m/km

to Rio Tablachaca 65 km 500 meters 11 m/km

to Pan American Highway 65 km 15 meters 8 m/km

Usefuls maps:

Santa 20-H, 19-H, 18-H, 18-G, 18-F

There are three ways to get there from Lima. The first is to follow the Pan American highway to the Southern beaches and follow the river up from its mouth. The problem with this route is that it passes through several Pueblos Jovenes and there are several police checkpoints where they want money to let you pass. The best way is to follow the Northern route through La Molina to Cieneguilla. There is a third route between the other two but I am not sure how to do it.

There are two distinct sections of the river. The lower one is in a canyon and is much more difficult than the upper. This section is a class 5 low water run and should be avoided at medium to higher flows. A possible takeout for the lower run is the town of Cieneguilla at 325 meters. A put in can be Puente Santa Rosa De Chontay which is 13 km upstream or at Puente Balconsillo de Aviyay that is an additional 4 km upstream at 850 meters above sea level. The majority of the action lies between these two bridges.

The upper run is a class 3-4+ run and can be done at higher flows at which time the water is usually brown and ICE cold. The takeout for the upper section is the same as the put in for the lower section (Puente Balconsillo de Aviyay). There is a house at the bridge and it has a Pacay tree. In March the tree has pods with inedible seeds and sweet, white, “cotton candy-like” fruit. To get to the put in drive upstream 7 km and look for what appears to be a reasonable approach to the river (as an option continue upstream to bridge at Antapucro which has   elevation of 1000 meters). Be careful on this run of trees. In places the river smashes through islands in the flood plain many of which are filled with both live and dead trees.

After the run try to save some time to visit “La Mesa de Piedra” restaurant in Cieneguilla which serves the local favorite “Pachamanca” which is a combination of meats and vegetables wrap in leaves and cook with hot stones under the earth.

Useful maps: are:

La Molina 1:50,000  1546 25J(IV)

Antioquia 1:50,000    25J(I)

The Cañete Rivers offers boating for both novices and experts alike. With year round flows and it’s proximity to Lima it has become one of the country’s commercial rafting centers and has been the training ground for most of Peru’s kayakers and rafters.

Buried in one of the Upper Cañete’s rapids

Flows in the rainy season can be several hundred cubic meters per second (> 5000 CFS) and in the middle of the dry season a paltry 5 CMS (150 CFS).

The whole river corridor is paralleled by a road, which at the time of this writing (1997) is paved up to Pacaran. Kilometer signs indicate the distance from the Pan American Highway and are sometimes (but not always) visible from the river.

Small falls on Upper section

Commercial rafting and the bulk of the day runs are centered around the town of Lunahuana at KM 34. The various sections of river are as follows:

Lunahuana to Paullo Class 3 day run from KM 34 to 27
Catapalla to Lunahuana Class 3 day run from KM 39 to 34
Pacaran to Catapalla Class 3-4 (5) day run from KM 55 to 39
Catahausi to Pacaran Class 4-5 day run from KM 82 to 55
Magdelena to Catahuasi Class 5-5+  four-day run from KM 127.5 to 82

Only the upper stretch from Magdelena Del Rio to Catahuasi is described in any detail. There is a small window to run this section of the river Late March/April at the end of rainy season. The radical stretch at KM 87.5 is not runnable at this time but becomes a great steep creek run at lower flows in July. The river contains an abundance of Class five whitewater in a beautiful semi-open canyon. Long stretches of radical whitewater are followed by calm stretches. Water is cold from Andean snowmelt with warm days and cool nights.

Getting dropped from bus near Magdelena in 1997

There are no hotels on the trip. There is a hostal in Pacaran that costs 10 soles per person and some restaurants. While in Pacaran ask around for the local distillery of Pisco. The owner will give you a free tour and as much Pisco as you can handle. From Lima a bus or car needs to be taken South on the Pan American highway for approx 100 KM to the mouth of the Cañete river valley. The road then climbs the river valley for 128 KM. The bus destination is Yauyos. There are two companies that travel Lima-Yauyos, “Expresso Yauyos” and “Empressa san Juan de Yauyos”. The price is approx. 10 soles with an additional 5 for kayaks, which can be strapped onto the roof rack. The put for the upper stretch is at KM 128 in the village of “Magdelena Del Rio” which is 128 KM upriver from the ocean. This is the point where the road no longer parallels the river. The bus climbs away from the river to the town of Yauyos one thousand meters above the river so it is important to get off here, as it is the last possible place. Much of the river can be viewed on the drive up and at any point you can get off when you decide you have seen enough. Travel time is 11 hours from Lima in bus. The takeout is in Pacaran at KM 55, which lies at 1650′ of elevation. From here a micro can be taken to Imperial for 5 soles and then a bus to Lima for 6 soles. An alternative is to continue downstream on the class three section to LunaHuana at KM34.

Old lady in doorway of where we stayed Magdelena 1997

On our first descent in March 1997 (high water El niño year!!!)  we had an estimated flow of 1200 CFS. A summary of the trip is as follows:

Day 1 Magdalena (6720 feet above sea level) KM 127.5 to KM 120 (6040 feet elevation) 620 feet drop in 7.5 km or 132 feet per mile average. One radical 5+ rapid at KM 120

Day 2 KM 120 (6040 feet elevation) to KM 111 (5320 feet elevation) 820 feet in 9 km or 24.6 m/km average or 125 FPM average with individual sections approaching 40 to 50 mpk.

Day 3 KM 111 (5320 feet elevation) to KM 103 (4640 feet elevation) 980 feet in 7 km (52 m/km) or 260 FPM average gradient. This stretch is basically one continuous class 5 rapid we called Santa Rosa. There is heinous rapid just below a bridge called Puente Colonia that should be portaged.

Day 4 KM 103 (4640 feet elevation) to KM 86 (3600 feet elevation) 1040 feet in 17 km (18.5 m/km) or 92 FPM average gradient. The morning starts out with mellow flatwater paddling then explodes into a class 5 fury for remainder of day. At KM 87.5 it becomes ultra wild with 400 FPM gradient. We portaged 500 meters of this section along the road then put back and ferried across river to make camp.

Day 5 KM 86 (3600 feet elevation) to KM 55 (1650 feet elevation) 1950 feet in 31.5 km (20 m/km) or 100 FPM average gradient. The stretch just above and below the bridge at KM 85 is pretty robust. After passing a village the river mellows out but soon leads into another class 5 rapid. Below this and to the town of Catahuasi it is very mellow water. At Catahuasi the river drops a few hundred feet in an explosive 1 km stretch. Below town of Catahuasi a stream enters on the left. From here to Pacaran it is a marathon 4-hour paddle session through one class 5 canyon and numerous 4+ sections.